Postcrete, or post-mix concrete, doesn’t require mixing and sets in five to ten minutes. It’s ideal for small projects like fence posts and rotary washing lines. Concrete requires precise preparation, takes 24 to 48 hours to set, and is best for large construction projects. When purchased in bulk, concrete is cheaper, but may involve additional costs like a concrete mixer.

Continue reading to learn more about these two materials and which may be the better choice for your project.

What Is Postcrete?

Postcrete, which is also called post-mix concrete, is a blend of concrete ingredients that requires no mixing or preparation before use. 

It’s ready to use straight from the bag and contains special additives that make it ideal for setting concrete, metal, or wooden posts into the ground.

What Is Concrete?

Concrete is a frequently-used engineering material that’s utilised for a variety of construction applications. It’s a composite material made up of cement, water, and an aggregate. 

These three ingredients must be mixed together in the appropriate ratios before the concrete is used for a project.

Postcrete Vs. Concrete: Similarities And Differences

Now that we’ve covered the definitions of Postcrete and concrete, let’s compare and contrast their characteristics. 

Applications

Postcrete is perfect for fence posts, decking posts, gate posts, and rotary washing lines. 

However, there are many projects for which concrete is a better choice.

These are mainly larger projects like commercial and residential buildings, dams, driveways, roads, foundations, fences, and bridges. Concrete is also used for culverts, sewers, and marine construction.

Generally, Postcrete is an excellent choice for small, quick projects, while concrete is better for larger jobs that require long-term strength and durability.

Composition

Postcrete is primarily made of sulphates, calcium aluminates, and calcium silicates. It also contains small amounts of lime, alkalis, and chlorides, as well as trace amounts of chromium compounds.

The aggregates for Postcrete include naturally-occurring sand mixed with combinations of various minerals like silica.

Concrete is made from three ingredients: cement, water, and an aggregate like gravel or sand.

Preparation

Postcrete is 100% ready-to-use and doesn’t require mixing or any other form of preparation. This means you can save a lot of time on your project by using Postcrete! 

Plus, because Postcrete comes pre-mixed, you can trust that the ingredients’ ratios are correct and don’t have to worry about potentially harming the product’s strength or durability.

The preparation process for concrete is much more complex and challenging. 

It’s important to add the correct ratios of water, cement, and aggregate. Incorrect proportions of these ingredients can have major effects on concrete’s durability, workability, and overall strength.

In addition, you’ll likely need to rent or purchase a mixer if you’re making a large quantity of concrete. Although it’s possible to mix concrete in a bucket or on the floor, it can be difficult and messy.

Ease of Use

Postcrete is far easier to use than concrete, especially for DIYers.

The process for Postcrete essentially consists of pouring it into a post hole, adding water on top, and waiting a few minutes for it to set. 

Meanwhile, concrete requires preparation and mixing and takes much longer to set than Postcrete. 

Setting Time

One of Postcrete’s greatest advantages over concrete is its short setting time. Postcrete takes only five to ten minutes to set when used in suitable conditions. It fully hardens in just a few hours!

Consider a project like installing fence posts, for example. When using Postcrete, you’ll be able to install multiple fence posts very quickly, maintaining a consistent pace, rather than having to wait long periods of time for each post to fully set. 

Concrete takes quite a while to set in comparison to Postcrete. It usually takes 24 to 48 hours to set. 

In some situations, concrete takes seven days to fully harden. It reaches its full strength 25 to 28 days after installation.

Strength

Postcrete is not as strong as concrete, and it’s more likely to crack and break, especially around the edges.

You may find that if you try to drill near the edge of Postcrete that has fully set, you’ll likely create a crack that will result in a large chunk of the Postcrete breaking off completely.

Drilling into concrete can crack it, especially if you’re working with lighter-weight concrete, but it’s much less likely to crack than Postcrete.

Cost

Postcrete costs around £6.40 per 20kg bag, which comes out to about £0.32 per kilogram. 

Keep in mind that you will generally need at least one bag of Postcrete per post, but the specific amount needed can vary depending on the size of the holes that need to be filled.

Concrete for domestic projects ranges from £85 to £100 per cubic metre. 

In comparison, you would need approximately 108 bags of 20kg Postcrete to cover a cubic metre. This equals about £691.20 per cubic metre, nearly seven times as much as concrete.

Although concrete made in bulk tends to be much cheaper than Postcrete, you must also factor in the cost of a mixer and additional labour if you’re hiring someone to help you with installation.

Postcrete Vs. Concrete: Final Thoughts

In general, Postcrete is ideal for small projects, and concrete is best for large applications that require longevity and maximum strength.

However, Postcrete is easier to use as it doesn’t require mixing and sets in just five to ten minutes. In comparison, concrete needs to be mixed with perfect ingredient ratios and takes up to 48 hours to set.

Concrete is cheaper than Postcrete when purchased in bulk, but you may need to pay extra for labour or to rent or buy a concrete mixer.

The post Postcrete Vs. Concrete: UK Guide (2026) appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

Here are the various driveway options in the UK:

1. Concrete Driveways 

Concrete is the most popular type of driveway option in the UK. This material is seamless to maintain and extremely hard wearing. 

You can generally expect concrete driveways to last for decades, even if the surface requires regular resealing. Due to porosity, it is also recommended to clean oil spills as soon as possible to prevent staining. 

From an aesthetic standpoint, concrete driveways are versatile and pleasing. A natural grey colour provides the property with a sleek, professional look. 

However, concrete can be dyed with various products or it can be painted on to enhance its appeal and create a statement. Popular colour options include sand, beige, and browns.

Pros 

• Can last over 30 years when designed and installed correctly
• Very good at controlling temperatures, so it won’t get too hot during summer
• Simple yet sleek look 
• Can be stained in a variety of colours
• More affordable compared to other driveway options

Cons 

• Water runoff can be an issue if not sloped correctly
• Driveway may experience cracking if poorly laid or due to extremely cold temperatures
• Removing eventual oil stains can be expensive and time-consuming if the surface is unsealed

Read more about Concrete Driveway Costs

2. Asphalt Driveways

Asphalt is another popular driveway option, often cheaper and easier to install than concrete. It has a rugged surface and it doesn’t come in a wide assortment of colours, which is why most people still prefer the concrete option. 

This material is often mistaken for tarmac, even though there are some key differences between the two. 

Besides composition differences, asphalt has a longer curing time of about two days. However, once cured, the material becomes highly weather-resistant, handling both extreme heat and cold beautifully.

Asphalt cracks easier than concrete, but holes and gaps are easy to fill. While it may not have the same aesthetic appeal as concrete, it is one of the most inexpensive driveway types.

Pros 

• One of the cheapest driveway options 
• Very good resistance to extreme weather
• More stain-resistant than concrete 

Cons 

• No colour options unless painted 
• Malleability due to heat could leave the driveway sticky during summer months 
• Tyre imprints may become visible during very hot weather 

3. Gravel Driveways

Gravel driveways are eco-friendly options good for low maintenance landscaping. They are also a DIY-approachable solution, providing a quick and easy installation regardless of your skill level. 

Gravel comes in a variety of sizes and colours, making this material a versatile choice too. However, the loose driveway finish could be a nightmare to install on inclines. 

Crushed stone and gravel are harder to maintain compared to asphalt or concrete, gathering dust and debris. Weeds could also ruin their neat appearance. 

When maintained properly, though, gravel can add kerb appeal to both city homes and countryside properties. 

Pros 

• Very easy to install professionally or on your own 
• Versatile driveway option available in various styles and hues 
• Excellent drainage 
• Driveway can be replenished and repaired with little effort
• Environmentally friendly option 

Cons 

• Unsuitable for sloped driveways 
• Requires more maintenance than other driveway materials 
• It is not considered a premium material

Read more about Gravel Driveway Costs

4. Brick Driveways

Brick provides one of the most sought-after and durable driveway finishes, this material is often adorning Victorian house gardens and urban driveways. 

Colours vary from grey – an excellent choice for a modern driveway – to traditional red, which would suit a cottage scheme. 

Durability-wise, brick driveways find themselves in-between concrete and asphalt, with an expected lifespan of about 25 years. The material is hard-wearing, easy to maintain, and it doesn’t stain easily. 

However, the non-porous nature could be a downside, as you’ll have to ensure adequate drainage. Installing brick is also more tedious than pouring asphalt or concrete.

Pros 

• Highly attractive finish 
• Easy to repair 
• Easy to maintain 
• Recyclable material 

Cons 

• Poor drainage 
• More difficult to install 
• May require constant sealing
• Susceptible to frost heaving 

5. Cobblestone Driveways

Like brick, cobblestone is a sought-after driveway material capable of enhancing kerb appeal and giving your exterior a refined look.

Stone setts not only add character with their irregular rounded shapes, but they are also very resistant and have the capacity to hold weight without cracking. 

Furthermore, they can withstand extremely cold or hot weather. The material is less porous compared to brick, requiring less sealing. 

Cobblestone is available in a bountiful range of shades of grey that can be arranged into an artistic or meaningful pattern. Like brick, stone setts have poor drainage.

Moreover, you should keep a stock of leftover setts to replace any loose stones as soon as possible. 

Pros 

• Wide range of design choices 
• Low maintenance 
• Durable 
• Ideal choice for high-traffic driveways 

Cons 

• Difficult to install 
• Expensive 
• Stones can become loose 

6. Resin Driveways

This versatile driveway surface solution is becoming more and more popular in recent years. Resin driveways can add aesthetic appeal, are very easy to maintain, and also represent the best material for cold weather you can get. 

The compound is hand-trowelled onto a new or existing base; the process isn’t hard, but it is tedious. This is why resin driveways are often more expensive to install compared to other options. 

Resin paving is extremely hard-wearing. Due to a required honeycomb pattern, the driveway also drains water efficiently, even on depressed surfaces. 

Depending on the actual product type, resin may also be non-toxic and have a minimal environmental impact. 

Pros 

• Wide range of colours and finishes 
• Very easy to maintain 
• Good drainage 
• Made of natural and sustainable materials 

Cons 

• Prone to staining 
• Weeds and grass growth could become visible
• Colours may fade with time 

Read more about Resin Driveway Costs

7. Tarmac Driveways 

Tarmac is another popular driveway material that could seem the same as asphalt to the untrained eye. However, tarmac is a mixture of stone and tar that cures faster than asphalt – typically in hours rather than days. 

Slight differences are also observed in the finish, with tarmac being rougher and darker in colour. 

Tarmac’s main downside is its roughness. The material is more likely to damage tyres and provides a weaker grip than asphalt. It is also more prone to staining. 

Similar to asphalt, tarmac isn’t the most environmentally friendly material. However, it provides a neat surface with little effort. 

Pros 

• Slightly cheaper than asphalt 
• Durable, relatively smooth surface 
• Easy to clean and maintain 

Cons 

• Algae and moss can create a dangerous slippery surface in shaded areas
• Grass and weeds tend to grow through tarmac 
• Can get really hot in summer

Read more about Tarmac Driveway Costs

8. Tar & Chip Driveways

Tar and chip driveways are very similar to tarmac, but they can contain chunkier stone pieces. Thus, their surface is often rougher. 

This material also differs from both asphalt and tarmac because it contains petroleum-based liquid and aggregate applied in separate layers rather than mixed together. 

Tar and chip isn’t the most common choice for residential driveways, but it’s a popular option for areas that need lots of traction. It is also one of the cheapest driveway options.

Unlike tarmac and asphalt, though, it requires a higher level of upkeep. 

These driveways are often more difficult to install due to their layered nature. However, they can resist for decades if laid correctly.

Pros 

• Very cost effective 
• Flat, even, and somewhat flexible surface 
• Higher traction than asphalt or concrete 

Cons 

• Needs more maintenance and loose stones must be replaced from time to time 
• Harder to install than asphalt 
• Grass and weeds can grow through 

9. Imprinted Concrete Driveways

Far less common than plain concrete but with similar characteristics, imprinted concrete driveways bring a twist to the most popular driveway choice. 

One of the main benefits of imprinted pattern concrete is the broad range of styles it provides. This material can replace stone pavers or brick, as it can be shaped and painted to look like these sought-after options. 

Customisation options are obviously possible, with popular patterns also including herringbone, cobblestone, and wood planks.

This decorative driveway also offers property owners a durable and extremely strong surface that can hold heavyweights. On the downside, imprinted concrete driveway costs vary widely, depending on driveway shape and design complexity.

Pros 

• Similar durability to concrete 
• Available in more patterns and hues than plain concrete 
• Can be personalised to owner’s requirements 
• Cheaper than stone pavers or cobblestone
• Excellent resistance to temperatures and elements 

Cons 

• Costs are influenced by design complexity 
• Harder to clean than plain concrete driveways 
• Requires periodical sealing 
• Water runoff can be an issue

10. Block Paving Driveways

Block pavers are some of the most expensive driveway materials, but nothing takes away the fact that they are one of the fanciest options. 

This driveway type is so popular because of the wide range of blocks available, incredible amount of patterns that can be achieved, and attractive finish.

Most homeowners also view them as a more modern and sought-after feature compared to brick.

Block pavers are typically made of concrete which, as established, is a durable material. They are also slightly cheaper than brick, even if their colour tends to fade with time.  

On the bright side, block pavers come in a variety of shapes and have standardised sizes, giving the driveway a unique yet uniform appearance. 

Pros 

• Homeowners can choose from a wide variety of block shapes and colours 
• Using different size pavers enable you to create unique designs and patterns 
• Finished look is highly aesthetically pleasing 
• Can increase your property’s kerb appeal 
• Multicolour options can hide stains and dirt 

Cons 

• Block pavers are expensive to buy and install 
• This driveway type requires a perfectly level sub-base
• As tedious to install as brick or cobblestone 

11. Reinforced Grass Paving Driveways

A home driveway made of grass can add visual appeal, especially in rural areas where asphalt and concrete tend to be an eyesore. 

Essentially empty concrete blocks, these pavers are available in a variety of shapes that have one thing in common – they are set over a substrate, then filled with soil and grass seeds, creating a green driveway. 

Resin and plastic paver options are also available, although concrete is the most common option. 

These pavers provide a durable surface that is almost as strong as asphalt and concrete. Drainage will never be a problem, but the grass will need maintenance.

Weeds can also proliferate and become a problem if the driveway is poorly maintained. 

Pros 

• High visual appeal, especially in rural and suburban areas
• Can become a hidden driveway indistinguishable from the lawn or surrounding natural features 
• Ideal for areas prone to flooding 
• More environmentally friendly than other driveway types 

Cons 

• Requires constant maintenance 
• Could be difficult to walk onto, especially if wearing high heels
• Must be installed over a specific substrate 
• Costs can vary depending on paver material and shape
• More expensive to install than other driveways

12. Recycled Glass Driveways

Not to be mistaken with actual glass, recycled glass driveways look like mosaics made of smooth glass pieces and resin. 

The choice of materials allows for a wide variety of colour, but what makes it popular is the eco-friendly aspect. 

Resin also makes this driveway type incredibly hard-wearing. Due to the smooth, non-porous surface, maintenance is a breeze. 

However, recycled glass driveways must be inclined for drainage and aren’t quite as durable as concrete or asphalt. 

Pros 

• Reasonably priced compared to natural stone or brick driveway options
• Eco-friendly driveway
• Niche product can add a unique appearance to your property 
• Maintenance is slim to none 

Cons 

• Less durable than asphalt or concrete 
• No drainage 
• More expensive than concrete 

13. Natural Stone Driveways

Natural stone is another eco-friendly choice and one of the longer lasting driveway materials – like clay bricks, it can last for decades. 

A clear advantage compared to brick is the array of options. Natural stone slabs and pavers can be made from a variety of materials.

Popular driveway options include sandstone and granite, but limestone, travertine, bluestone, and even marble are other popular choices. 

Due to the difference in strength and properties of the various stone products, natural stone driveways can suit high- or low-traffic areas.

Porous options like sandstone or travertine are best suited for low-traffic driveways. Slate and granite are better choices for a high-traffic area. 

Another advantage is the type of finishes you can achieve. Moreover, thanks to the unique appearance of each stone piece, you can rest assured this driveway type is unique.

Indian sandstone pavers are one of the most popular natural stone options.

Pros 

• Versatile design options can suit contemporary or traditional exteriors 
• Variety of stone materials and colours 
• Natural imperfections enhance the visual appeal and add value 
• Most stone materials are porous and drain water effectively 
• Good resistance to extreme temperatures 
• Environmentally friendly 

Cons 

• One of the most expensive driveway options 
• Not all stone types can withstand heavyweights
• Natural stone has higher maintenance requirements than other materials 

14. Basalt Driveways

Some may argue basalt is a type of natural rock paver, others may claim it is a type of gravel. In reality, both descriptions are true, and you can install this natural driveway material either as gravel or as pavers. 

Regardless of the form, this black sedimentary rock can easily add visual appeal. The natural porosity makes it an excellent choice for areas that need drainage. 

Basalt slabs offer good strength and resistance. They also provide a streamlined finish that complements modern exteriors and industrial style gardens. 

Crushed basalt is a more appropriate choice for a rustic or traditional exterior. This gravel type can enhance the idyllic look of a countryside cottage. 

Pros 

• Higher slip resistance than concrete or asphalt 
• Improves property value 
• Available in paver or gravel options 
• Excellent drainage
• Resistant to plant growth 

Cons 

• As expensive as natural stone options 
• Paver installation requires a lot of preparation 

15. Tegula Paving Driveways

One of the most popular aged-look driveway materials in Britain, Tegula pavers are a speciality type of block pavers often used as a cheaper alternative to brick. 

These pavers are made of concrete but feature an aged, distressed finish that can easily add appeal. They are also available in various size options for a 1-, 2-, or 3-sized layout. 

The 3-sized layout is undoubtedly the most sought-after. Pavers come in mixed packs containing a combination of small, medium, and large slabs. A random layout provides an attractive, weathered pattern. 

Tegula paving comes in five attractive shades you can mix and match, or opt for a solid colour for a more modern effect. 

Pros 

• Budget-friendly alternative to brick 
• Multiple size and colour options 
• Easy to install and create unique layouts 
• Good drainage and durability 

Cons 

• Pavers do not interlock, leaving space for weeds and grass to grow 
• Typically need more maintenance than other block pavers 
• Colours may fade with time

16. Porcelain Paving Driveways

Porcelain paving provides one of the most sought-after types of driveway finishes, but it isn’t the best choice for low budgets. 

This is one of the most expensive paving materials. It is also trickier to lay compared to other slabs, since the pavers can crack if installed on an uneven surface. 

When laid correctly, however, porcelain driveways blend seamlessly into contemporary spaces. They also resist heavyweight traffic both in the front yard and in the patio. 

Due to its low porosity, porcelain paving driveways are frost-proof and also resist high temperatures. They are also easy to clean with plain water and a mop.

Pros 

• High resistance and durability 
• Low to no maintenance 
• Wide range of colours, patterns, and textures 
• Excellent weather resistance 
• Fade-resistant, fireproof, and slip-resistant 

Cons 

• Trickier to lay than natural stone or block pavers 
• Hard to cut to dimension or drill
• Expensive 

17. Interlocking Paver Driveways 

Interlocking pavers are a popular alternative to brick or cobblestone driveways and one of the best driveway materials for DIY installation. 

These pavers connect together through the use of sand, and are a suitable choice for any application where bricks or concrete would be used for. 

Unlike concrete or asphalt, these pavers don’t require any curing time. They must be laid on a previously-prepared base of concrete and sand, and are ready to drive or walk onto right after setting. 

Interlocking pavers are also designed to lock perfectly one against the other. There is little to no room left between them, so fewer chances for weeds to pass through.

Since they are not glued to the substrate, these pavers are also easy to remove and replace whenever you want. 

Pros 

• Fairly easy to install with no adhesive
• Easy to replace a cracked or damaged paver 
• A cleaner appearance than other pavers

Cons 

• Require a perfectly prepared base 
• Moss and algae growth can be observed in shaded areas 
• Generally more difficult to maintain than concrete 

18. Bitumen Driveways 

Bitumen is commonly applied onto concrete or asphalt driveways, but it can be successfully installed on its own too, over well compacted ground. 

Its main advantage is the low cost compared to other driveway options. Bitumen is also weather-resistant and porous, offering adequate drainage. 

Like asphalt, this material is malleable. In other words, it can become tarry and scorching hot when sunny. 

Despite its common use in road construction, bitumen isn’t a common option for residential driveways. 

Pros 

• Typically cheaper than asphalt 
• Easy to install on level surfaces 
• Porous surface offers adequate drainage 

Cons 

• Poor weather resistance compared to asphalt or tarmac 
• Can become very hot in summer 
• Wears out faster than other materials

19. Crazy Paving Driveways

A popular technique used in many driveways and paths throughout the UK, crazy paving refers to using irregular shaped bricks or stone slabs arranged in random (but fitting) patterns. 

Options include natural stone and man-made pavers, the durability and characteristics of the surface depending on the actual material. Costs vary with the material too, manmade options often being cheaper than natural stone. 

Due to the variety of shapes, crazy pavers make it easy to achieve a unique look for your driveway. However, they are not as strong as other driveway solutions. 

In fact, if not installed correctly, they can deteriorate and become weak. Labour costs can also be higher when installing them.

Pros 

• Variety of paver materials and colour options 
• Ideal for constructing unique driveways 
• Some materials offer slip resistance 
• Often cheaper to buy than natural stone pavers

Cons 

• They are generally more expensive to install 
• Require proper installation or they deteriorate quickly 
• Weaker than other driveway solutions 

FAQ

What is the easiest driveway to maintain?

Concrete and resin driveways are typically the easiest to maintain. Asphalt comes second, while recycled glass and porcelain pavers also need slim to no maintenance. 

What type of driveway adds most value?

Paved driveways add the most value to a property. Options vary from everlasting brick to natural stone, cobblestone, or reinforced grass paving. 

What is the cheapest type of driveway?

Gravel driveways are the cheapest. They are ideal for DIY installation, but are challenging to clean. Adding more gravel if needed is easy, though.

What is the best type of driveway to have?

Concrete is undeniably the best type of driveway to have. This material is durable, low-maintenance, and affordable.

It can also be used as a base for other driveway types, increasing the resale value of a property.

Next Steps

Choosing the right driveway type can be challenging, but the variety of options can make it easy to find the best solution for each circumstance. 

Concrete and asphalt driveways are popular no-frills options for those who want a reliable yet affordable solution. 

Block pavers, cobblestone, brick, and natural stone can add charm and increase kerb appeal. Man-made options such as resin or recycled glass provide long-lasting durability. Hopefully, this guide can help you pick the right driveway type for your property.

The post 19 Types of Driveways UK: 2026 Material Options List appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

How well does it stand up to water?

None of the Polyfilla products are fully waterproof, but some specific types of Polyfilla are classified as weatherproof. Weatherproof Polyfilla is meant for exterior use and can withstand rain and snow. Moisture-resistant Polyfilla is also available. It’s great for use in kitchens and bathrooms, but is not intended to stand up to large amounts of water.

Continue reading to learn more about various Polyfilla products. We’ll also talk about Polyfilla’s uses and the differences between Polyfilla and plaster.

Is Polyfilla Resistant To Water?

There are multiple types of Polyfilla. 

Some are considered water-resistant, while others are meant for outdoor use and are classified as weatherproof.

Moisture-Resistant Polyfilla

Just as this product’s name suggests, this type of Polyfilla is a water-resistant filler. It’s meant to fill cracks between surfaces, particularly in areas like bathrooms and kitchens.

To use it, you first need to work the tube between your fingers before removing the cap and squeezing the Polyfilla out in a continuous bead.

Next, level off the filler using a damp cloth or a wet knife. You’ll want to angle the bead so that water drips off of it.

Wipe off the excess Polyfilla before it dries, and then ensure it doesn’t come into contact with water until it’s completely dry. Finally, replace the cap and wash your tools in warm water.

Multi Purpose Exterior Polyfilla

Because this product is intended for use outdoors, it’s much tougher and can stand up to more moisture than the moisture-resistant Polyfilla.

It’s classified as weatherproof and can withstand rain and snow. However, it’s not fully waterproof. Instead, it’s both water-resistant and water-repellent. 

Suitable for all outside filling projects, the Multi Purpose Exterior Polyfilla takes one hour to set. Once it’s set, it has a weatherproof finish that doesn’t crack or shrink. It also accepts bolts and screws. 

One difference between this product and the moisture-resistant variation is that it’s grey in colour once it has set, rather than white.

To use the weatherproof Polyfilla, squeeze it directly into the crack. Then, use a wet filling knife to smooth it off. If your repair is deeper than 10mm, you’ll want to build up the Polyfilla in layers.

Once dry, sand it down and paint over it if desired.

Polyfilla Uses

Polyfilla is highly versatile and can be used for a variety of projects.

You can repair minor imperfections like cracked paint, nail holes, chipped concrete blocks, and rough wood grain. Polyfilla bonds to masonry, brick, concrete, wood, drywall, and plaster, so it can be used on nearly any surface.

Although Polyfilla can be used for many applications, there are some situations it’s not intended for.

These include floor and deck applications, chinking between logs in log cabins, tuck-pointing on brick, and underwater projects. 

Polyfilla should not be used as a sealant or caulking, either, and it’s not ideal for applications that require flexibility.

Polyfilla Vs. Plaster

There are multiple differences between Polyfilla and plaster.

Composition

Polyfilla is a spackling paste or filler that is cellulose-based. 

Some types of Polyfilla are made from special resins and high-strength cement. Others include ingredients like EVA glue and powdered aggregates.

Plaster is made from water, sand, and lime or gypsum.

Water Resistance

Firstly, Polyfilla is water-resistant, and some types of Polyfilla are even water-repellent as well. 

Meanwhile, plaster is not waterproof–in fact, it’s water-soluble. Plaster is easily damaged when water comes into contact with it.

Ease of Use

There is a Polyfilla product specifically formulated for plaster repair called Polycell Plaster Repair Polyfilla.

It’s a plaster repair powder that’s easy to mix, apply, and smooth out. The product’s description explains that it’s much easier to work with than regular plaster. 

Adhesion

Polyfilla has a better bonding capability than plaster, making it the better choice for small repairs. Using finishing plaster for repairs will also require the use of an adhesive.

Potential Problems

The plaster repair Polyfilla does not crack, shrink, or slump. Unfortunately, these issues are common with plaster.

Cost

Plaster tends to be cheaper than Polyfilla.

Although Polyfilla’s cost varies by product, it is usually more expensive per square metre than plaster.

Conclusion

There are many kinds of Polyfilla available, but none of them are fully waterproof.

You can find some types of Polyfilla that are marked as “water-resistant.” These aren’t completely waterproof, but they can still be used in moist environments like bathrooms and kitchens.

Exterior-grade Polyfilla is usually classified as “weatherproof,” meaning that it can stand up to weather like rain and snow. It’s both water-repellent and water-resistant.

The post Is Polyfilla Waterproof? (Everything You Need To Know) appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

In any case, silicone sealant is easy to remove with materials you may already have lying around the house.

White spirit does remove silicone sealant, but not on its own. The white spirit will soften the sealant and break down its adhesive bond. Then, you can cut away most of the sealant and scrape up any remaining residue. Using the same application method, you can also use methylated spirits, denatured alcohol, white vinegar, or branded sealant removing products.

What Is White Spirit?

White spirit is a chemical solvent that comes from petroleum. It also goes by the names Stoddard solvent, mineral spirit, paint thinner, and turpentine substitute.

This clear liquid is a common ingredient in paints, varnishes, adhesives, and even printing inks. However, you can also use it as a cleaning solvent, and it does well to break down paint.

You Can Remove Silicone Sealant With White Spirit

White spirit not only breaks down paint, but it can also remove silicone sealant. It doesn’t break down the bulk of the sealant, however. Instead, it softens the material, which lessens its adhesion.

It’s difficult to remove large amounts of sealant with white spirit alone. You may need to trim away most of the sealant before you apply the white spirit.

In addition, since white spirit can remove various types of paint, you have to be careful where you use it. For example, it works best on surfaces with no finish, such as concrete or brick.

If you have paint around your windows, you may want to consider using a less harsh solvent.

How To Remove Silicone Sealant With White Spirit

What You’ll Need

• Drop cloths (optional)
• Face covering
• Rubber gloves
• Lint-free cleaning cloths
• White spirit
• Straight razor blade
• Putty knife or other scraper

1. Make Sure The Area Is Dry And Protect Other Surfaces

If there’s any wet sealant, clean up as much as you can with a cleaning cloth. Dry the area with a cloth or let it air dry.

If you’re working with a large area of sealant, you may want to lay down drop cloths. This will catch any debris and protect your walls and floors.

2. Soften The Silicone Sealant

While wearing gloves, soak one of your cleaning cloths in the white spirit. Then, apply the cloth to the silicone sealant you want to remove to soften it. 

Wait a few minutes for the white spirit to soak through.

3. Cut Away The Sealant

Using a razor blade, cut and peel away the now-soft sealant, being careful not to cut yourself. 

You should always wear protective gloves when handling sharp tools.

4. Scrape Away The Remaining Residue

Using a razor will remove the bulk of the sealant, but you will likely have some residue left behind. 

Soak the remaining silicone sealant with more white spirit. Then, use a putty knife or other form of scraper to scrape the rest of the silicone away.

Other Methods For Removing Silicone Sealant

White spirit isn’t the only product that can remove silicone sealant. WD-40, an oil-based solvent, can break down the sealant’s adhesive as well.

You can also use methylated spirits or even household vinegar to soften silicone sealant. White vinegar is an inexpensive alternative, but it’s not always as effective as white spirit.

You can apply each of these alternative methods in the same way you would white spirit. There are also products, such as Unibond, made specifically for the purpose of removing silicone sealant.

These may be more expensive and take longer than the white spirit method, depending on the brand. However, they also have additives that may make them more effective than other methods.

In Summary

White spirit has many helpful uses around the house. You can use it as a paint thinner or a cleaning solvent for dirty paint brushes. It’s a common ingredient in various paints and finishes you can buy at any hardware store as well.

One of the most helpful uses it has is the removal of silicone sealant. Silicone sealant is a durable and strong adhesive. Therefore, it’s very difficult to dissolve it completely like you would paint or softer adhesives.

However, white spirit does soften the silicone material and weaken its adhesive properties. After soaking the silicone sealant you want to remove, it will become pliant enough to be easily cut away.

Methylated spirits, denatured alcohol, and white vinegar can also help you remove silicone sealant in a similar way. There are also branded products like Unibond that are made specifically to remove sealant.

Each method has its pros and cons, from cost to ease of use. But in general, white spirit is a cheap and effective way of removing your old or unsightly silicone sealant.

The post Does White Spirit Remove Silicone Sealant? [Yes! Here’s How] appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

If you have constant gaping in your floorboards, you may want to consider filling them in. 

A mix of dust and resin is an easy and cost-effective way to seal the gaps in your floorboards. However, adding wood strips of the same colour is more seamless and durable. Wood putty and filler are easier to apply but may not last as long as other methods.

Why You Should Fill In Gaps In Your Floorboards

If there are gaps in your floorboards, you could be losing money on your home’s heating and cooling. The gaps are acting as holes through which air can escape.

They can also weaken the integrity of your whole floor. Filling in the gaps tightens the whole surface and prevents excessive movement of the boards.

However, gaps in floorboards are a normal part of having hardwood floors. Many times, you’ll only see the gaps in the winter because they close up in the more humid months.

If this is the case, you don’t need to worry about the gaps too much. It’s a natural factor in the expansion and contraction of the wood.

You should only need to fill these gaps when they no longer disappear in warmer weather. The following two methods will guide you through the entire process.

How To Fill Floorboard Gaps – Wood Strip Method

Flooring professionals consider this to be one of the most effective methods for filling in floorboard gaps.

The process is a little longer and more expensive than other methods, but the results are the most reliable.

What You’ll Need

• Tape measure
• Table saw (optional)
• Wood strips in the same colour or, ideally, the same flooring
• Wood glue
• Rubber mallet
• Cleaning cloth
• Electric sander
• Wood stain/paint/finish (optional)

1. Measure The Exact Dimensions Of Your Gaps

Take precise measurements of the width and length of the gaps that need filling.

You want a tight fit so the pieces will stay in place for a long time to come.

2. Cut Wood Strips

Using a tale saw, cut strips of wood to the dimensions you need.

Ideally, you should always save a few planks of the original floorboards for future repairs such as this. However, a wood that’s close enough in colour will also work fine.

If you’re not comfortable using a table saw, check with your local hardware store. They may be able to cut the strips for you.

Or you can find strips that are the right width and cut them to the appropriate length. Table saws require precision, but cutting length is much easier than cutting width.

3. Apply Wood Glue And Hammer In The Strips

Apply wood glue to raw edges of your wood strips. Then, use a rubber mallet to wedge the strips carefully but firmly into the gaps.

Wipe up any excess wood glue with a damp cleaning cloth before it dries.

4. Let The Glue Dry, Then Sand The Floor

Following the manufacturer’s instructions is always a good idea. But a good rule of thumb for wood glue is to let it dry for about an hour.

Once the glue is dry, sand the floorboards where the gaps were to achieve an even surface. Re-stain or refinish the floor as necessary.

How To Fill Floorboard Gaps – Sawdust Method

Using sawdust is a common and inexpensive method to fill in floorboard gaps. However, it’s not the most effective, as the sawdust filler will shrink and shift over time.

If you decide to re-stain your floors, the colour of the filler may be noticeably different from the actual wood.

What You’ll Need

• Electric sander
• Broom and dustpan
• PVA glue or resin
• Bowl
• Paint mixing stick or wooden craft stick
• Scraper or another flat tool
• Cleaning cloth
• Wood stain/paint/finish (optional)

1. Sand The Floorboards And Collect The Dust

Using an electric sander, sand down the areas of floor where there are gaps. Be careful not to spread the sawdust around too much, as you’ll need it for your filler mixture.

Sweep up as much sawdust as you can and put it aside – don’t throw it out.

2. Create A Filler Mixture With Glue Or Resin

PVA glue is a cheaper alternative to resin, but it’s not quite as durable. Whichever material you use, you’ll mix it with the sawdust in a bowl until it forms a paste.

A paint mixing stick or craft stick is great for this job.

3. Push The Paste Into The Gaps

Using a flat tool such as a paint scraper or even the mixing stick, push your dust mixture into the gaps of your floor. Fill in the gaps until the paste is level with the top of the floorboards.

You can use your scraper to level out the mixture. Then, carefully wipe away any excess from the surface of the floorboards with a damp cleaning cloth.

4. Let Dry And Sand Again

Let the dust mixture dry, then lightly sand the floorboards again to ensure you have an even surface. This time, you can sweep up and dispose of the sawdust from the sander.

If needed, re-stain or re-paint the floorboards.

How To Fill Floorboard Gaps – Wood Putty/Wood Filler Method

Wood putty and wood filler are two distinct products, but their application process is very similar. Both are very easy to use.

Note that wood putty is best for smaller, low-traffic areas. This is because it takes a long time to dry (if it dries at all). But it does a better job handling temperature change than wood filler.

You can apply wood filler to larger areas, and it will harden much faster than putty.

This also makes it more durable, but you may find it doesn’t last as long as other methods. This is because wood filler doesn’t handle fluctuating temperatures as well as putty or wood.

What You’ll Need

• Wood putty or wood filler
• Cleaning cloth
• Electric sander (for wood filler)
• Wood stain/paint/finish (optional)

1. Sand The Floorboards (For Wood Filler)

If applying wood filler, use an electric sander to even out the floorboards where the gaps are.

If using wood putty, you don’t need to sand the floor first. Most wood putties are more effective on wood that already has a stain.

However, you should choose a putty colour that’s the closest match to your floorboards. This is because wood putty rarely absorbs stains.

2. Apply The Wood Filler Or Putty

Using a putty knife, press the putty or filler into the gaps according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If using filler, overfill the gap slightly as the material can shrink as it hardens.

With wood putty, simply ensure the putty reaches the top of the floorboard. Then, smooth it over with the putty knife so it’s level.

Clean up any excess putty or filler with a damp cleaning cloth.

3. Let The Filler Or Putty Dry

Assorted brands of wood filler could have different drying times. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions to allow for enough drying time.

Putty can also have varying drying times, and some doesn’t fully dry at all. Some can take up to three days to dry, and it will still remain somewhat pliable.

4. Sand And Re-stain (For Wood Filler)

After the wood filler is dry, sand the floorboards for an even surface. Then, re-stain or repaint if you need to.

Summary

Floorboard gaps are a natural part of having hardwood floors. The wood contracts in the dry, cooler months, then expands in humidity.

If the gaps don’t disappear with the warm weather, they could cause your problems down the road. To prevent energy loss and a weak floor, you can fill in these gaps as they get worse.

Many professionals recommend using strips of wood cut to size and hammered into the gaps. However, it can be difficult and a little pricey.

If you want something a little more inexpensive, you can try filling the gaps with a mixture of sawdust and glue or resin.

Finally, for smaller gaps, wood putty or wood filler can do the job as well. These fixes are not as durable as the other two, but they’re very easy to apply

The post How To Fill Gaps In Floorboards: 3 Ways To Seal Your Floors (UK) appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

It mimics the look of other types of flooring, such as natural stone and hardwood.

This type of flooring has plenty of benefits, such as durability, versatility, and customisability. It’s warm underfoot, has a non-slip surface, and is highly moisture- and bacteria-resistant.

Karndean flooring comes with disadvantages as well, including the following:

• It comes at a high price
• It must be professionally installed, adding to its overall cost
• It’s prone to fading when exposed to sunlight
• It’s susceptible to scratches
• It’s combustible
• It’s challenging to repair
• It shouldn’t be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner
• It’s less durable than other flooring options

Read on to learn more about each of Karndean flooring’s disadvantages. We’ll also provide a few tips for combating potential drawbacks.

1. High Cost

Karndean flooring can cost more than hardwood and natural stone flooring, so it’s not ideal for those on a tighter budget. 

However, Karndean is pretty durable, so the initial high cost could pay off in the long run. 

Plus, pricing can vary depending on the type of Karndean flooring you choose, the size of the area where it will be installed, and the company you hire to install it.

We recommend getting quotes from a few different installers before buying to make sure that you’re getting a good deal.

Read: cost of karndean flooring

2. Requires Professional Installation

Another drawback of Karndean flooring is that you’ll likely need to hire a professional to install it. While you can absolutely attempt to install it yourself, it’s not wise unless you have experience with this type of flooring.

The flooring’s complex design can be very tedious to install. Incorrect installation can lead to issues like bumpiness, peeling, flaking, and the creation of crevices where water can seep in and do damage.

Since it’s best to hire a professional to install your Karndean flooring, you’ll need to factor the cost of installation into your budget on top of the price of the product itself.

3. Prone To Fading With Sun Exposure

When exposed to direct sunlight for a long period of time, Karndean flooring can fade and become discoloured. 

Although this type of flooring is manufactured with UV ray inhibitors, the protection doesn’t last forever.

4. Susceptible To Scratches

Although Karndean flooring is advertised as scratch-resistant, it is not scratch-proof. 

Vacuums, large appliances, and furniture can all scratch Karndean flooring. Children and pets can also inadvertently cause scratches. 

You can purchase a protective film to install on top of your flooring to help prevent scratches. Another option is to select flooring options with weathered designs, which are less likely to show damage.

5. Cannot Be Cleaned With Vacuums

It’s not recommended to clean Karndean flooring with vacuum cleaners, especially those that have beater bars. 

Instead, it’s best to clean Karndean flooring by first sweeping away debris and then mopping it with a pH-neutral cleaner made for vinyl floors. Karndean has its own line of cleaning products specifically made for this purpose.

Another cleaning-related drawback is that you cannot mop your Karndean floor until the adhesive has fully cured after installation. 

The curing process can take as long as 28 days. If you mop before the adhesive has cured, you may damage the seal between the flooring and the subfloor.

6. Vulnerable To Fire

In comparison to natural stone, Karndean flooring is much more combustible and vulnerable to fire. 

It’s crucial to be careful if you’ve installed this type of flooring in rooms where flames will be lit. This even applies to rooms where cigarettes will be smoked. A cigarette butt can cause a fire if dropped on vinyl flooring.

7. Challenging To Repair

If you encounter a situation in which you need to replace a large section of your Karndean flooring, the repair process can be tricky. 

Just as with the installation, you’ll need to hire a professional to complete the job.

8. Not As Durable As Other Options

Karndean flooring is highly durable, but it’s still not as durable as tile or stone. 

Still, it typically has a longer lifespan than carpet, laminate, and other vinyl flooring options.

Conclusion

One of Karndean flooring’s biggest disadvantages is that it’s expensive and requires professional installation, which adds to its cost. 

It’s also susceptible to scratches, prone to fading when faced with long-term sunlight exposure, and cannot be cleaned with vacuum cleaners. 

In addition, it’s combustible, challenging to repair, and not as durable as flooring options like tile and stone.

The post 8 Disadvantages of Karndean Flooring: UK Guide [Cons] appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

How To Extend Washing Machine Waste Pipe

If a remodelling project forced you to move the washer far from the drain, extending the plumbing to the appliance is the best thing to do. This might involve moving your drains, and you should hire a plumber for this task. 

However, if the new washer drain hose is too short and doesn’t quite reach the sink drain or standpipe, you can solve the issue with a waste pipe extension kit.

What You’ll Need 

• Drain hose extension kit
• Flathead screwdriver
• Plumber’s tape
• Tape measure 
• Jubilee clips (optional)

1. Get The Right Extension Kit

Extending the washing machine waste pipe with an extension kit can result in disaster if you use the wrong hose and fittings. 

Most brands, including LG, Samsung, and Beko, sell washing machine drain hose extension kits compatible with their appliances. 

A universal washing machine drain hose extension kit may or may not be compatible with your appliance. 

Most universal kits include connectors with an 18mm and a 22mm end. Measure the diameter of your washer’s drain hose to see if it matches.

If you need a different size, buy a separate connector and extension hose from your home improvement store.

Next, measure the distance from the end of the washer hose to the drain. 

Extension hoses are generally between 1.5 and 3-metre long. If you need a longer line, it is recommended to move the drain and extend the plumbing (PVC pipe) to the washer location.

2. Turn Off Electricity And Water Supply

Safety is paramount when working with an appliance. 

As far as electrical safety is concerned, simply unplug the washing machine. If you can’t reach the socket, turn off electricity from the circuit breaker. 

To turn off the water supply, locate the shut off valve near the washer, the sink, or somewhere in the basement or outside your home, near the entry point of the main water pipe. Turn the handle anticlockwise to shut it down. 

3. Extend Your Washing Machine Waste Pipe 

Waste pipe extension kits generally come with everything you need for the job, including the connector and a Jubilee clip. 

The connector – or coupler – is designed to fit snugly inside the washer and extension hose, and it needn’t be fixed with clips. However, you can tighten the connection with additional fasteners if you’re concerned about leaks. 

If you want to use clips to tighten the connection, slide a clip onto the washing machine hose. Fit one end of the connector into the hose and push until the hose edge touches the raised ring in the middle of the connector. 

Note: If the coupler has a different diameter on each side, make sure to push in the right side. 

Tighten the clip by turning the screw with a flathead screwdriver until snug.

Place a clip on the end of the extension hose and repeat the above to fit and fasten it onto the connector. 

4. Connect The Extended Pipe To The Drain

Generally, washing machines are installed in kitchens or utility rooms where they connect either to a sink drain or to a standpipe. 

No matter what type of drain you have, the hose should be connected at the correct height to prevent backflow and siphonage. 

This height can be anywhere between 40 and 100 centimetres, but you should check your appliance’s specifications before installing the hose bracket. 

Once you’ve fastened the bracket to a wall or cupboard panel, run the hose through it to ensure proper installation. 

To hook the hose to a sink drain, slide a Jubilee clamp on the hose and slide the hose on the spigot. Push until the spigot is all the way in, and tighten the clamp with the screwdriver. 

If you have a standpipe, insert a maximum of 15 centimetres of the hose into the standpipe. Avoid pushing the hose farther into the pipe, as siphonage may occur. 

You don’t have to seal the hose to the standpipe, but you can fix it with plumber’s tape if you’re concerned about it slipping out.

5. Test The Drain 

Before deeming the job done, switch on electricity to the washer – or plug it in – and turn on the water supply. 

Select the shortest programme and run an empty cycle. Check all connections for leaks and monitor the appliance throughout the cycle to detect backflow problems (look through the window if it’s a front load washing machine or open the lid to see if it has drained the water if you have a top-load washer). 

Note: Installing the hose at an incorrect height or not maintaining a slope towards the drain can result in backflow. Backflow could cause the washing machine to overfill with water and overflow, flooding your home. If this happens, it also increases the risk of electrocution. 

Is It OK To Extend Washing Machine Drain Hose?

Some manufacturers warn against extending a washing machine drain hose, mostly because they can’t assume responsibility for flooding or malfunctions caused by the improper installation of an extension hose. 

However, extending the drain hose is fine as long as you respect the required height and general drain installation in the user manual. 

You should know, though, that extending the waste pipe with an extension kit can void the warranty if your appliance is new. 

The only way to avoid this is by extending the wall or sink drain pipe so that it reaches the original hose your appliance comes with. If you don’t want to risk it, the best idea is to consult a plumber.

Can You Change The Waste Pipe On A Washing Machine?

Using an extension hose is often frowned upon, but what about replacing the hose with a longer one? 

Luckily, you can change the waste pipe on a washing machine – not only with a longer one but also if the original hose is damaged or leaks. 

Most manufacturers sell replacement hoses of various lengths for their appliances. It is always best to buy an original part from the same brand as your washer instead of a universal replacement hose.

What Is The Maximum Washing Machine Waste Pipe Length?

UK drainage and waste disposal regulations limit the washing machine (and dishwasher) waste pipe length to three metres. This includes any extensions you might add to the original hose. 

Appliance manufacturers that allow the use of hose extensions recommend a maximum extension length of 1.5 metres.

To End 

Extending the washing machine waste pipe with an extension kit is an easy DIY project. We hope this guide can help you complete the task successfully. However, if you’re in doubt, don’t hesitate to ask a plumber for advice.

The post How To Extend Washing Machine Waste Pipe: 5 Step Guide UK (Do This!) appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

No matter what type you use, you might be wondering how long plaster takes to dry before you can paint or drill holes in it to hang furniture and objects. 

Plaster takes about two to four hours to dry to touch. However, it must cure properly before painting, drilling, or fitting kitchen cabinets on it. Depending on plaster type, temperature, air moisture level, ventilation, and how many layers you applied, plaster can take anywhere from seven to 21 days to fully dry. 

The table below shows you an overview of how long the different kinds of plaster take to dry and cure: 

How Long Does Undercoat Plaster Take To Dry?

Undercoat plaster is the type of plaster that goes directly onto masonry materials. Its role is to create a smooth surface for the finish materials whilst also adding a layer of insulation and protecting the masonry.

Bonding Plaster

This undercoat is commonly used for low suction materials, such as concrete blocks. It can take between 90 and 200 minutes to set and needs at least four days to dry fully.

A quick-setting type of bonding plaster is also available. This takes only 60 minutes to set, but you should still allow for four to seven days of dry time.

Browning Plaster

Is used as an undercoat for high suction materials, such as stone or Thermolite blocks. 

Like bonding plaster, it is pink or grey in colour and is fully dry when the shade becomes uniform and pale (about seven days). The setting time is slightly shorter than bonding plaster.

Hardwall Plaster 

Is a high-impact undercoat for medium suction backgrounds like brick and Aircrete blocks. 

Setting time can vary from 160 to 300 minutes, depending on the brand. It can take up to 14 days to dry completely. A light colour is an indicator of dryness.

Tough Coat Plaster 

This undercoat is an excellent choice for tough conditions other plasters can’t handle, such as frozen walls. It also provides some fire protection.

It generally sets in 120-130 minutes, but it needs at least seven days to dry completely. 

DriCoat Plaster

A speciality plaster type, DriCoat, is used for replastering after fitting a new damp-proof course or on walls that have dried up after flooding. 

It sets in about 24 hours, but you should leave it for at least one full week to dry completely before applying a finishing product.

How Long Does Finishing Plaster Take To Dry?

Finishing plaster goes on top of the undercoat variety and can be decorative on its own or used as a base for paint or wallpaper. 

Base Filler Plaster

One of the quickest-drying plasters, it is used for filling cracks and holes and repairing walls. It sets in about an hour and generally needs four to seven days to dry before sanding, painting, or wallpapering.

Like all plasters, the longer you leave it to dry, the better the end result once you apply the decorative finish.

Board Plaster

It goes on top of plasterboard after installation, smoothing out the joints and fastener recesses. 

It sets very fast, generally in an hour, and also cures faster than other types. You can normally apply the decorative finish in three to five days.

One Coat Plaster 

As it says on the tin, one-coat plaster only requires one coat. However, this doesn’t shorten the drying time. 

Like all plasters applied over an undercoat or masonry material, it requires up to seven days to dry fully in optimal conditions. In poor weather or high humidity, it can take up to two weeks to dry.

The setting time is also longer compared to other plaster types – about 240 to 300 minutes. It can also be used for undercoating.

Skim Plaster 

Skim plasters are designed for fast application on large surfaces through spray skimming. They provide a smooth, inert surface suitable for the application of decorative finishes. It is particularly indicated for wallpapering.

Skim plaster sets in two to three hours and requires up to seven days to dry completely.

Finishing Plaster

This plaster type is generally suitable to use on all backgrounds for finishing and repairing jobs. Two or more coats may be required for finishing. 

A quick setting time between one and three hours ensures quick application. It fully dries in about seven days.

Magnetic Plaster

One of the most sought-after plaster types, it can turn a wall into a magnetic board. The thick compound sets relatively fast, about 200 minutes from application. 

Let it dry completely for at least four days – preferably longer – before painting the surface with chalkboard paint or other suitable coats. 

How Do You Know When Plaster Is Dry?

A visual inspection is the easiest and most reliable way to tell whether plaster is completely dry or not. 

All plaster types have a dark colour when wet. As they dry, the shade lightens up until it becomes a pale pink or grey (sometimes green). 

When the plaster appears to be a solid, uniform, very light colour, it is most likely dry. It still needs drying if it is dark or has darker patches. 

How To Speed Up Plaster Drying?

Speeding up the plaster drying process is generally not recommended. Plaster that dries too fast can crack or chip, and it might not bond to the substrate. 

That said, you can speed up drying time by increasing ventilation and temperature. 

Open the windows and use a space dehumidifier if it rains or there are high levels of air moisture in the room. A space heater can also speed up the process.

FAQs 

How long should plaster dry before painting?

Plaster should dry for at least three or four days before painting. An undercoat should dry for at least seven days before applying finishing plaster.

Do I have to mist coat new plaster?

Yes. A mist coat is watered-down paint that soaks into the plaster and improves results when painting with undiluted emulsion. 

Applying a mist coat can enhance bonding and prevent paint from flaking or peeling. Let the mist coat dry for at least 24 to 48 hours before applying the topcoat.

How long does plaster take to dry in winter?

Plastering work carried out in winter generally requires about 50% more drying time compared to plaster applied in good weather. You should wait for at least 14 to 21 days before finishing the surface.

Plaster in moist environments, such as the bathroom and kitchen, can take longer to dry regardless of the season.

Summary

Most plaster products become touch-dry quickly after application (about two to three hours). However, it can take up to three weeks for them to dry completely. 

Since the actual dry time varies based on environmental conditions and layer thickness, the easiest way to tell when your plaster is dry is by checking out its colour.

The post How Long Does Plaster Take To Dry? UK Guide (Answered) appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

Treating dampness in internal walls could be as easy as applying a coat of waterproof (but breathable!) paint. However, some damp problems may require more extensive repairs. 

This guide will show you how to fix them.

How To Treat Dampness In Internal Walls

Many homeowners believe that damp internal walls are a result of condensation. However, there are other potential causes. Isolating the cause is paramount to solving the issue permanently.

1. Isolate The Cause 

The first step to damp proofing walls internally is identifying the damp type. There are four potential reasons for damp walls: 

Condensation 

Condensation is the most frequent cause of damp internal walls in UK homes and the easiest to treat. 

It generally occurs due to insufficient ventilation, a lack of insulation, and poor habits, such as forgetting to turn on the extractor fan when showering or leaving the windows closed when cooking (especially if you don’t have a cooker hood). 

Signs of condensation include damp patches, water droplets on walls and other hard surfaces, mould and mildew stains, and peeling or flaking paint.

Penetrating Damp

Also known as lateral damp, penetrating damp is usually the result of water successfully finding a way from the outside of the building into your home. 

Older buildings made of porous masonry materials are more susceptible to penetrating damp. Cracks in render and masonry, moss on the roof, and other openings in roofs and walls are the main causes of this damp type. 

However, it can also happen due to plumbing pipes leaking inside a wall.

Signs of penetrating damp include damp patches on walls and ceiling, damp staining on external walls, flaking or peeling paint, crumbly plaster, and black mould. 

You may also notice water dripping from the wall or ceiling when it rains or if a pipe is leaking.

Construction Damp 

Construction damp has the same signs as penetrating damp, but it is caused by a construction error.

Potential causes include defective or missing windowsills, non-breathable wall coatings, improperly installed or defective seals around doors and windows, and unsealed holes in walls where cables or pipes protrude. 

An error when rendering the house is also a potential cause of construction damp.

Rising Damp 

Rising damp is more frequent in old houses, even though it can happen in any building. It occurs when ground level water travels up through porous building materials, including brick, sandstone, and mortar.

A tide mark on your ground floor walls is the most common indicator of rising damp. This mark, sometimes referred to as salt damp, is caused by the soluble salts found in groundwater and the composition of masonry materials. 

Other signs of rising damp include damp patches on the lower portion of the walls, bubbling plaster, peeling or flaking paint, rotting flooring and skirting boards, and a musty smell.

2. Solve The Damp Problem

Once you’ve isolated the cause, select the appropriate damp wall treatment below to fix the problem.

How To Stop Condensation Problems

Increasing ventilation and insulating external walls, the basement, and the roof are the best methods to fight condensation.

You can insulate the walls internally or externally. 

Internal wall insulation is cheaper than external, and you could even fit the rigid insulation boards yourself. Panels are generally 100mm thick, so they will slightly reduce your floor area.

Increasing air movement can be done in a number of ways. Opening the windows when cooking or after taking a shower can help get rid of vapour. 

You can also install a new or more powerful extractor fan or an externally vented cooker hood. Your clothes dryer and washer should also be vented externally. If possible, avoid drying your laundry indoors.

Keeping your home warm in winter and using dehumidifiers can also help fix condensation issues.

How To Stop Damp Coming Through Walls

The treatment of dampness inside the walls is slightly different depending on the cause. 

If you’re dealing with penetrating damp, check the pipes, drains, and gutters and make sure they are not blocked. Check the roof for missing tiles.

Check around your window and door frames for any damp spots or cracks. 

Inspect the walls externally for holes or cracks in the render. A cracked or loose flashing between the chimney stack and the roof could also let moisture in. 

If you’re suspecting a construction damp problem, check the roof insulation and make sure it’s installed correctly. 

Inspect the holes where cables or pipes enter the home. Check the doors and windows (including the windowsills) and make sure they are installed correctly. 

If you can’t identify the damp cause, hire a damp surveyor or contact your building association or local council. 

Once you’ve found the cause, take the appropriate steps or hire a contractor to fix it. Painting the external walls with a water seal product could also stop penetrating damp, if caused by porous masonry materials.

How To Stop Rising Damp 

The only way to treat rising damp in an old house – or in a new one, for that matter – is to create a new damp-proofing course.

Injecting a chemical damp proofing course into the walls is the cheapest way to stop rising damp. This is done by drilling holes into the base of the walls (externally) and injecting the compound. 

If you have a basement, waterproofing it could also solve the problem. 

3. Repair The Walls

Whilst treating damp walls before painting is crucial for a quality finish so is repairing the walls once you’ve solved the damp problem.

The first step is to let them dry thoroughly. Increase ventilation and use a space heater or room dehumidifier to speed up the process.

Stripping the old paint might be necessary in case of extensive damage. Also, inspect the plaster and fill in any cracks or holes before treating the surface with an interior wall sealer. 

In case of mould, clean the walls with a solution of one-part bleach to four parts water. Wipe the affected areas with a rag, then dispose of the cloth in a bag to prevent spreading mould spores to other areas of your home.

Once the walls are repaired, apply a good primer and paint in the desired colour, using a waterproof but breathable emulsion.

What Are The Effects Of Dampness In Walls?

Dampness in walls must be treated promptly, and not only because living in a damp house is bad for your health. 

Moisture travelling through walls may soften the plaster and render, causing them to crumble. It also affects the paint finish and could lead to the disintegration of masonry materials. 

Eventually, dampness in walls can reduce the structural strength of your house.

Summary

Treating dampness in internal walls can be quick and cheap or a costlier and more extensive process, depending on the cause. We hope this guide can help you identify the source of moisture and fix the problem before it becomes a real danger.

The post How To Treat Dampness In Internal Walls: 3 Step Guide UK (Do This!) appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.

The main advantage of halogen hobs is their safety compared to both gas and electric cookers. Infrared light delivers instant heat, and the glass-ceramic cooktop is very easy to clean. However, the thermal conductivity is less efficient compared to gas or induction hobs. The cooktop is also more fragile compared to induction cookers.

Halogen Hobs Pros And Cons Overview

The table below shows a brief overview of halogen hobs’ pros and cons:

6 Halogen Hob Pros 

A type of ceramic hobs, halogen hobs are considered high-tech kitchen appliances. They use radiant heat for cooking or warming up food and find their place in all kitchens thanks to the streamlined design. 

Let’s have a look at their pros.

1. Instant Heat

One of the main advantages of halogen hobs is the technology packed in their heating element. 

Although they run on electricity, halogen hobs are different from their electric counterparts. Standard heating elements use electricity to heat up and transfer the heat to a metal plate, which then transfers the heat further to the pan. 

Halogen hobs feature infrared elements and use radiant heat. This type of heat is similar to that produced by infrared space heaters (infrared light) and is transferred directly to an object – in this case, the cookware. 

This technology makes halogen hobs more similar to gas or induction hobs rather than electric or other ceramic types. The rings get hot very quickly, more or less like a gas burner’s flame.

2. Low Maintenance 

Like all ceramic heaters, halogen hobs need little to no maintenance. The cooktop is basically a flat ceramic glass surface. 

The high-tech design means there are no dials or knobs in the way. All this makes the hob very easy to clean. 

Simply wipe the surface with a damp cloth or a halogen hob cleaner after cooking once the surface has cooled down.

3. Sleek Design 

Most kitchens can benefit from the streamlined look of halogen hobs. The flat, frameless design joins the hob and worktop together, adding fluidity to your interior. 

Installing these hobs is also as easy as it gets. They generally come with everything needed for installation, including sealant strips that go between the hob edges and your worktop. 

The only thing to remember is that you should never replace these strips with silicone caulk or other sealants. Caulk and sealants may not perform well in the proximity of heat and could damage your worktop. 

Unless you want to pay for a costly worktop replacement, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and provided materials when installing it.

4. Safety 

Safety-wise, halogen hobs are safer than gas and old-fashioned electric hobs. The main advantage is that they won’t explode in case of malfunction – such as gas stoves – and are less likely to catch fire compared to electric hobs. 

Most models incorporate advanced safety features, such as child locks that prevent tiny fingers from operating the unit and sensors designed to turn off the appliance in the absence of a pot. 

However, this doesn’t mean that you can disregard the electrical wiring and safety regulations when installing this hob type, including installing it a minimum of 30 centimetres from a sink. 

5. Temperatures

All kitchen enthusiasts know that nothing compares to a gas cooker when it comes to reaching those scorching-hot meat-searing temperatures. 

However, as far as electric cookers go, halogen hobs can get hot enough to allow for decent searing and high-temperature cooking – about 700°C. They are undeniably more performing than standard electric and non-halogen ceramic hobs.

6. Energy Efficiency

As far as electric cookers go, the halogen type offers the best compromise between cooking speed, controllability, thermal safety, and energy efficiency.

If it were to compare a halogen hob vs. induction, the latter would win. However, if you want to replace a resistance or standard ceramic cooker and don’t want to break the bank, a halogen cooker is your best bet. 

3 Halogen Hob Cons

1. Price

Perhaps the main disadvantage of halogen hobs is their price compared to non-halogen ceramic, electric, and gas cookers. 

Although they are cheaper than induction hobs, you can still expect to pay more upfront compared to all other types. The only exception is the high-end, semi-professional gas cookers, which are more expensive. 

2. Thermal Conductivity 

Whilst it is true that halogen cookers provide the best compromise in terms of value for money, their thermal conductivity is not the best. 

These cookers use infrared heat to warm up your pots and pans. Infrared heat is basically hot light; that’s why cooking on these hobs takes longer compared to gas, induction, and even non-halogen ceramic.

3. Cooling Down Time

Another disadvantage is that halogen hobs don’t cool down almost instantly as induction cookers do. They are more similar to electric and gas cookers in this aspect, requiring a few minutes before the surface becomes cool to touch.

FAQs

Are halogen hobs expensive to run?

Halogen hobs are not the cheapest to run – gas cookers are – but they are cheaper to run than electric and non-halogen ceramic hobs. 

Are halogen and induction hobs the same?

No. Halogen and induction hobs look alike, but they use different technologies. Whilst halogen cookers use infrared radiation that slowly heats up the cooking vessel, induction hobs use an electromagnetic field that transfers heat to the pan almost instantly. 

This is why induction cookers are more performing and energy-efficient compared to halogen.

How do halogen hobs work?

Halogen hobs work by transferring heat to the cooking vessel through a process called infrared radiation. 

Infrared radiation is similar to the UV radiation from the sun and works in a similar way. When you turn on the hob, the heat travels from the halogen ring through the ceramic glass and hits the first object in its path. 

The closer an object is to the heat source (the ring), the more it will heat. When there is no pot on the stove, the radiation disperses into the room and heats up other objects in its path, such as the kitchen cabinets. 

However, the effect in this case is similar to that of a room heater – you don’t have to worry about the hob setting your kitchen furniture on fire.

Do halogen pans work on induction?

Halogen pans will only work on induction cookers if they are induction-compatible. Cookware designed for induction hobs is magnetic; otherwise, the electromagnetic field can’t transfer the heat to the cooking vessel. 

However, halogen hobs generally work with all types of pots and pans – the thinner the material, the faster the cooking.

Key Takeaways

Halogen hobs are an excellent choice for a modern kitchen if you want to give up gas and don’t have the money for an induction cooker. We hope this guide can help you make an informed decision.

The post Halogen Hobs Pros And Cons: 6 Deciding Factors UK appeared first on TradesmenCosts.co.uk.